3D打印打印机-Thing-O-Matic说明书.pdf

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TOM Usage

1 - TOM Usage - Proper Belt Tensioning - MakerBot Industries

2 - TOM Usage - Testing Your Bot

3 - TOM Usage - Thingomatic - How To Print

4 - TOM Usage - Maintenance and Upkeep

5 - TOM Usage - Thing-O-Matic Calibration

6 - TOM Usage - How to Print Raftless

Thingomatic Firmware Installation - MakerBot Industries

Proper Belt Tensioning Tensioning Mechanism The tensioning mechanism on the Thingomatic is the motor mount. Instead of holes, there are slots where the motor is mounted. This allows the motor to move in a direction parallel to the axis. To loosen or tighten the belt, loosen the bolts on the motor and slide it towards or away from the stage. When you are satisfied, tighten the motor bolts back down. This may be a bit tricky on the X motor, and you will need to take the top plate off the Y carriage in order to get access to the bolts. Tensioning belts In general, belts should be tight enough to minimize slack, but not so tight that they start placing a lot of stress on the motor shaft or pulleys. Once a belt is on, turn the motor pulley with your fingers to gauge if there's too much resistance. If the belt makes an audible noise when you 'pluck' it with your fingers, it is too tight. The Thingomatic operation should be nearly silent. If your motor makes a humming or buzzing noise, your belts may be too tight. To test if your belt is too loose, rotate the motor pulley back and forth by hand. If the stage moves back and forth in sync, then you are okay. If it lags behind, the belt is too loose. A more conclusive test is to print a cylinder from Thingiverse on your Thingomatic. If any of the sides are flattened, then the belt on the corresponding axis is too loose.

Testing Your Bot Connect to your bot Double-check your voltage This is also a good time to double-check that the red switch on the back of your power supply that selects your local voltage level is in the correct position. The switch should be pushed to the right, with the text "115V" visible, in areas with 120V power mains (USA and Canada). The switch should be set to the left, with the text "230V" visible, in areas with 230V power mains (EU, China). Make sure you don't have the power supply set to "115V" when plugging it into a 230V outlet!

Plug in the power and turn it on Find the black power cord provided in the kit. Plug one end into the power supply on the left side of your machine and the other end into a wall socket. Flip the switch on the power supply to ON. The fan on the power supply should start up. Plug In USB and Connect Take the included USB A to B cable and plug one end into the Arduino MEGA on the right side

of your bot. Plug the other end into your computer. Next, open up the ReplicatorG program that you installed in the very first step. First, select the appropriate Machine -> Driver -> Thingomatic driver for your build platform. If you've just built a MK6-equipped bot, make sure that you select on of the options with "MK6" in the title — otherwise your stepper motor won't move correctly. Now, you'll need to find the correct serial port that your machine has registered as. You can see a list of connected serial ports in the Machine -> Serial Port submenu. If your computer doesn't have a built-in serial port, you may only see one entry; if you're using a desktop with built-in serial ports, you'll probably see several entries. The way a Thing-O-Matic appears in this menu depends on the platform you're running on. On Windows machines, it may appear as "COM3:". On Linux machines it often appears as "/dev/ttyUSB0". Macs will see multiple entries for each serial port, with a unique ID associated with each physical connection. The entry you'll want to choose on a Mac is one of the form "/dev/tty.usbserial-XXX", where XXX is a unique identifier. After you select a serial port, ReplicatorG will try to connect. (If you've got the "Automatically connect on startup" option unchecked in the preferences panel, you'll may need to press the

'Connect' icon on the right side of the button bar to tell ReplicatorG to connect.) The status bar should turn green, as shown. The console window below should list both a Motherboard and Firmware version. If the console window reports that the motherboard can not connect to the toolhead, make sure your patch cable is connected between the motherboard and extruder controller, that the extruder controller is plugged into the power supply, and that the power on the Thing-O-Matic is switched on. Step 3: Open your Control Panel Open the control panel by selecting the Machine -> Control Panel.

You should be presented with this window. Testing Your Axes The first step to testing your bot is to verify that all of your stepper motors are working. These are the motors that move your bot around, and if they don't move, then you don't print. First,

there is some information you need to know about your XYZ axes configuration. Get to know your axes The Thing-O-Matic moves along three axes: the X axis, the Y axis, and the Z axis. The X axis is the one that runs from left to right; the Y axis is the one that runs towards and away from you. (Think of these as being like the X and Y axis of a graph, seen from above.) The Z axis goes up and down. Spend a moment to familiarize yourself with the directions of the axes. It will save you a lot of frustration later! XY Axes and Relative Motion Look closely at the picture above. On first glance, the X and Y axes may look backwards to you. Moving the X axis in the negative direction means moving it to the right. The reason for this is what we call Relative Motion. To be specific, we're talking about the motion of the extruder nozzle relative to the build surface. Imagine for a second you are a tiny little person that is standing on the build surface. You are facing the back of the machine. Suddenly the build surface you are on moves in the X– direction (to your right). You look up at the extruder nozzle and see that it is (from your perspective) moving to the left. The relative motion of the nozzle to the build surface that has been achieved is a movement in the negative direction.

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